Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Open Monument Day in Amsterdam

We are always so grateful to Greg's colleague, Pauline, for keeping us updated on the city's activities. Ever since we moved, she's been filling us in on great places to visit in NL and how to get there via public transportation. She's awesome!! Well, she came through again...this time with Amsterdam's Open Monument Day, which was Saturday, September 12th. Basically, there are lots of monuments and other places open to the public that normally are not, or they are free of charge, when normally there would be admission fees. A day of exploring some hidden gems of Amsterdam and it's free? Count us in!!

We started the day at 11 a.m. at De Bazel, the info location for OMD (Open Monument Day). This building is named after its architect and was built between 1919 and 1926 for the Dutch Trading Company. Today, it is used as a conference center. We wanted to get some general information about what to visit, and we were really hoping to score some tickets for the Koninklijk Paleis (the Royal Palace) on Dam Square. We had to wait in line quite a while, but we did get free tickets for 12:45 p.m. So, we thought it best to head back to Dam Square and wait there. We hoped to walk around and get Ben good and sleepy by 12:44. :)

Once back in Dam Square, Greg and I took turns visiting the Nieuwe Kerk. Typically, the Nieuwe Kerk is open only during exhibitions and for cultural activities. This church dates from the 14th century and was Amsterdam's second parish church to be built after the population outgrew the Oude Kerk. Since 1814, all the Dutch monarchs have been crowned here. As Ben and I were snacking while Greg enjoyed the church, I noticed "Mozes en Aaronstraat". We've been by the Nieuwe Kerk many times before, but hadn't ever noticed this street sign. Since Ben likes to read about baby Moses, I thought it was fitting I take a photo...

Also while we waited, we just strolled around Dam Square and acted like tourists. Got photos of the square from all sides...the Palace, De Bijenkorf (the "Bee Hive" department store), the National Monument (from 1956, commemorating Dutch World War II casualties), and Madame Tussaud's.

By now it was nearly 12:45 and time for our visit inside the Royal Palace. Ben was wide awake, so we were hoping it wouldn't be too "museum-like". The Palace was originally built as the Stadhuis (town hall) beginning in 1648. In 1808, Louis Napoleon declared the building his royal palace, and most of the furniture on display and chandeliers date from this time. Today, the Dutch royal family still uses the Palace for official functions on occasion. We were only allowed to visit the first floor, as the other floors are currently undergoing a major refurbishment. But, it was really magnificent! Our favorite part was the Burgerzaal (citizen's hall - see last photo), which is 95 feet high and runs the length of the building. The marble floor was inlaid with maps of the eastern and western hemispheres - wow!!

We finished at the Palace around 1:30 p.m. From there, we walked through Chinatown on our way to the Waag. The Waag is Amsterdam's oldest surviving gatehouse from 1488. Public executions were held there until 1617 when the building became the public weigh house. It has also been the meeting room of the Guild of Surgeons, a fire station, and a city museum. It currently is a cafe/restaurant, and Greg and I were hoping to get a glimpse of the inside and then sit and relax with a coffee. Oops! We read our OMD Guide wrong...it is only open to the public on Sunday. Oh well. Since Ben had fallen asleep at this point, we figured it was good to skip the coffee and keep on with the sightseeing...

We made our way through the Red Light District and past the Oude Kerk (so pretty, couldn't help snapping another photo) to the Museum Amstelkring. This is the canal house I spoke of earlier in the blog that housed Our Lord in the Attic secret Catholic church. But this time, no picture of the OUTside - I ventured INside. The museum does have rooms that have been refurbished and decorated as from the 17th century style, but it was definitely the church in the attic that impressed me the most. There was a "mock" marble altar with beautiful artwork, an organ, and even a tiny confessional! This church was built in 1663, extended for more seating in 1735, and served the Catholic community until 1887 when St. Nicolaaskerk was finished.

Next on the list was to head back towards Dam Square to the Beurs van Berlage building, only open during exhibitions. It was designed by Hendrik Berlage as the stock exchange building and completed in 1903. It is now used for concerts, shows, changing exhibitions, and is home to the Nederlands Philharmonic Orchestra. I thought the Great Hall looked like a fantastic place for a wedding reception...too bad I don't know anyone getting married in Amsterdam.

Next, Greg wanted to visit the Makelaars Comptoir building, a guild hall built in 1633. The broker's guild was founded in Amsterdam in 1612 - a broker being an independent intermediary in the trade of loose goods such as coffee, tobacco, and grain. The hall was built on the site of an older house, and is thus one of the best preserved 17th century houses in Amsterdam. Greg didn't snap many photos inside, but came out and said, "did you see me stick my head out the window and wave?" I hadn't seen him, so he left the camera with me and went back in to re-create the moment. Silly goose...

Another one of the remaining guild houses in Amsterdam is the Corn Meter House. From 1620, meetings took place here in the guild of...you guessed it, corn! There was a restoration to the house in the late 1800's and has been used as the headquarters of the Federal Heemschut since 1967, a private association that protects cultural monuments. I have to admit that I love that these buildings are being used and protected today - whether it is office space or for exhibitions, etc. They are too fantastic to just sit and not be enjoyed by someone or be torn down!! Look at these amazing windows! Oh, and right down the street was "Coffeeshop Ben", and I just had to snap a photo...

Last on our stop for the day was Brug 9 (Bridge 9), with an interesting tale of a bridge and her tower. Brug 9 is now the oldest of the remaining bridges of Amsterdam, from 1480. The January Red & Port Tower (a fortification gate, see drawing courtesy of the brug9 website) stood on the bridge from 1480 until 1829, when it was demolished. The bridge is 42 meters wide, the widest bridge in Amsterdam. There are three arches and an alley, which has been used as a prison and storage space. In 1648, the wooden bridge was replaced by a stone bridge. Then, from 1960-1962, the bridge foundation was reinforced with 240 concrete piles. At that time, there were plans for rebuilding the tower, but they didn't materialize. The last restoration took place in 2006, a resurfacing of the bridge deck with an outline of the old tower in stones. Check out the old Delft tile inside the alley, and it was cool being level with the canal water...

I thought it was interesting how they have recently been using the "alley" space. In the late 1980's, art exhibitions were held here. In the late 1990's, a nearby cafe rented the space and would sponsor small events, like watching football and small dance parties. Then, from 2003 through 2007, more renovation - which included floor heating, cleaning the walls, sewer connection so toilets were installed, electricity (with telephone and internet!). The monumental nature of Brug 9 remains intact, but the new elements allow for the space to be used even more, and it appears quite a 'trendy' thing to do - how fun!! (Found this photo of a movie showing on the brug9 website. Would this be the canal version of a 'drive in'?)

It was quite a full day, but we were thrilled to see more of our adopted city and the sights she has to offer. Thanks again Pauline!!

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